I NEED A WIRING DIAGRAM FOR A ROBERTSHAW OVEN THERMOSTAT. THE NUMBERS ON THE UNIT ARE P-15942-66 AND 9950930 AND PN46. I THINK IT IS FOR A SEARS/FRIGIDAIRE OVEN. IT HAS SEVEN BRASS CONNECTION POINTS. I NEED TO KNOW WHICH TWO CONNECTORS I SHOULD USE TO CONTROL A SINGLE 115V ELEMENT. WIRING DIAGRAM? THANKS, WAYNE PHILLIPS IN TEXAS
Parts and wiring for older appliances can be difficult to find with supporting information. If you could also add the model number of the oven it may help the expert provide a better answer. In the meantime, you might try the link below for more information on this thermostat for stoves.
Wayne: I could not find an image of the thermostat in order to see the how the terminals are labeled. It's odd that a thermostat would have that many terminals. It almost sounds like a selector switch more than a thermostat. If you can you take a digital photo of the front and back of the thermostat may be I can help.
Joey: Maybe this will help: On the back there are four screw-type brass connectors. These four are labeled B3, L1, L2. The fourth one has no label but has a screw in it screwed to a metal piece. There are three tab-type (push-on) connectors labeled BU and a 5 next to it BR and a 7 next to it, the third one has no label, but an 8 next to it. Does this help? Thanks, Wayne
Wayne: You must look at the thermostat as a switch. It makes and breaks contact as needed to bring on the element when needed. When the thermostat closes it completes a path of voltage to the heating element. Since your using a 120 volt heating element you are basically going to wire the L1 side of the voltage supply to L1 and then I can't be sure which other terminal will make and complete the circuit when it closes. You will need to use an ohm meter to find out which other terminal is closing to L1 terminal. The thermostat you have is not your average oven thermostat. The L1 or L2 will most likely be one of the terminals to connect your power supply to but I would have no idea which other terminal would make contact and complete the circuit without using an ohm meter to check for continuity. You will only need to find which two terminals makes and breaks contact when the thermostat calls for heat and when it opens once it reaches the set temperature. If you not sure how to figure which two contacts/terminal make and break you may want to have someone with knowledge of how the thermostat works and has an ohm meter to figure it out for you.
Joey: The only terminal which shows contact (zero ohms) with L1, when the knob is turned clockwise, is B3. The rest show infinite resistance with L1 when the knob is turned fully clockwise or counterclockwise. So, I assume I should use L1 and B3 as my contact closures. I guess the next test is to see if the L1/B3 contact opens when the temperature probe reaches the temperature set on the knob Any suggestions on how to test the temperature probe? Maybe submerge it in some boiling water (212 degrees)? Thanks, Wayne
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