This roto tiller was missing several of the fuel lines and i'm not sure where they go, I have all the fuel line, its just been removed by the previous owner. I need to find out where they go on the carburetor and where they go in the fuel tank. It would be really helpful to either have some very detailed instructions or a picture. Thanks!
Managemylife.com is a great place to find the answers to just about anything, especially on appliances. I would suggest that you provide a little more information such as the make and the model # of your product so your expert will be able to provide you the best possible answer. Just click on reply below and the provide the required data.
I've attached a notated photo of which lines go where. The supply line will have the fuel filter on it inside the tank and then go to near the primer bulb. The return line may have a check valve on it inside the tank. The vent line will have a check valve on the end of it where it stops under the engine shroud.If you have any further questions please let me know back here on this thread.Thank you for using Manage My Life!
Hi Wade! I've got the 7222-03-03 tiller SV-5C/1, which I believe is the same as above. I changed the fuel lines with a new set but according to your illustration above I had the supply and return lines reversed. It did fire the other way around but, after changing them per your instruction above, I can't get it to fire at all now. Initially the problem was no power or throttle up. It would barely run. I put in a new carb kit, new plug and fuel lines and fuel/air filters. I've taken the carb apart once again and have pulled the jet screws out and sprayed carb cleaner into the holes. I'm letting it sit for awhile now and, per another post, I will shoot some WD-40 into the ports and jet holes then reassemble the carb. What I have at this point is: the yellow hose has the fuel filter on it and hooked to the top of the carb by the purge bulb. The vent is hooked up and protrudes slightly into the tank. The return line is hooked to the bottom of the carb and then goes into the tank about 6". Is the return line supposed to be long and in the fuel? I'd appreciate your help on this and thanks!
I know how frustrating it is to figure out the correct fuel line routing. I posted a link below that will take you to a video on how to rout the fuel lines. Once you have the fuel lines routed correctly check the operation. If the engine still does not start follow this informarion. The engine needs three things to run. They are fuel, compression and spark. Letís check for those first. Try to start the engine as you normally do. After you pull the rope, a few times remove the spark plug. The end of it should be wet if it is getting fuel. If it is not wet, I recommend replacing the spark plug and pouring a thimble full of fuel into the throat of the carburetor. Then try to start the engine. If the engine acts as if it wants to start or does start you need to check the fuel lines. If the lines are fine, you need to clean or replace the carburetor.
If the spark plug is wet after try to start the engine, I recommend checking for spark. I found a video that will aid in checking for spark. Click [ here | http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7WNBDRG4C4 ] to watch the video.
If you have spark I recommend checking for compression. To do this you need a compression gauge. You should be able to loan one from Auto zone. They have a loan a tool program. Once you have the gauge installed pull the rope a few times fast. You should have a reading of at least 90 psi. If you do not have this reading there is a problem in the cylinder. This type of repair usually exceeds the valve of the unit. Thank you for using Manage my life. Mark.
Thanks for the info. I did the spark check and have great spark. Checked the air gap and made sure it's at .013. The spark plug IS wet - I've pulled it out several time, blew it off to dry it and even blew some of the "extra" fuel out of the cylinder. The fuel lines are now routed correctly, with fresh filter, fuel, etc. I've pulled the carb apart - again! - and cleaned it with carb cleaner and shot some WD - 40 in the main body, I've blown it gently dry with air compressor, reassembled everything and making sure all parts are where, and how, they're supposed to be. I even shot some starting fluid in the throttle opening, but it still will not start! Doesn't even try to start. Funny thing is, is that after I initially rebuilt the carb, and disconnected the kill switch - which is faulty and I will replace - it was running but barely. I couldn't, however, get it to stay idling long enough to make any adjustments. Since then I've pulled the carb apart, as stated above but it just won't start. I think I need to just replace it...:( Should I just go through Mantis or do I just need to be sure and get the same carb from another source? Thanks!
Dave, It sounds like the carburetor is the problem but I recommend checking the compression first. You should be able to loan one from Auto zone. You should have at least 90 psi for the engine to run. If the compression is fine remove the muffler and try to start the engine. A plugged muffler will keep the engine from running. I also recommend replacing the spark plug. If the compression is fine and all else fails, I recommend replacing the carburetor. You can order the part from Mantis or Google the part number and order it from a different source. I wish you luck on the repair. Please let me know if you need further assistance. Mark
Well, finally installed the new carb. and it works great! Started on the second pull. I DID check the compression, as you suggested, and it was about 110 lbs, which is great. Thanks to you guys, I was able to figure out what was needed and now my wife is happy she can finally use it again...AND it runs like new! THANK YOU! Dave
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