Product Model Number: 139.53663SRT Brand: craftsman Message: my garage door opener will go up but it wont go down, the led blinks 5 times indicating a bad rpm sensor, however i just replaced the entire rpm sensor assembly. i have checked the wiring harness for continuity between each end and also checked that the photo eyes are properly aligned. the motor will kick on and open the door completely until it hits the up limit however once it is at the up limit it will not kick on to reverse and close the door, if i disconnect the power and manually turn the drive screw to the closed position then re connect it the door will open when i hit the button i just cant get the opener to kick on to close the door. what would cause it to do this? and what can I do to fix it? I have a digital multi meter where I could test it myself however i dont know what the values should be for ohms continuity etc and between where and where any help would be appreciated. even if i had to buy diodes, resistors, or transistors at radio shack and solder new ones to the logic board i could do that i just need the information to properly diagnose which parts are bad and causing the problem. i had ordered the entire rpm sensor assembly from sears parts direct and installed it. it seems as if the logic board is not recognizing the sensor or that its not recognizing that the door is at full open that it needs to reverse to close it. both photo eyes have steady solid green light s on them indicating they are working and properly aligned the door is not jammed or locked and the green light on the button is also steady green.
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I suspect a problem with the logic board on your opener. The error code and the actual failure really do not seem to match up. The failure is like a safety sensor has failed and the code is showing RPM sensor failure or motor over heating.On the wall control, with the door up, hold the button down to see if it will close then. If it does, I would suspect the board since you've checked the safety sensors and that seems to be working as it should. There is not a board schematic or anything available to really diagnose the board. Basically it has to be narrowed down to a point where it can't be anything but the board. In this case, I'd say there is a very good chance the board is indeed the problem. Do check the disk that goes with the RPM sensor to make sure it is pushed solidly onto the end of the motor shaft. Also, check the wires to the limit switch assembly to make sure they are in place and not loose or pulled off.Let me know what it's looking like when you can.Thank you for using Manage My Life!
Hi wade, You might recall I had the same problem with 5 flashing error code. We suspected the RPM sensor ( error code 5) and I ordered the part. While waiting (has not arrrived yet) I looked long and hard at the sensor cup. It had very little room for error( less than a MM). It was ushed all the way on the shaft. BUT!! I noticed the shaft was moving towards the logic board forcing the sensor out of the detect RPM range. There is a clamping ring on my unit (139.53673srt3) which holds the shaft in the most forward position and does not allow it to move as bfore. I looseded the two hex screws and pushed the shaft forward and while holding in that position, tightened the locking screws. Miriacle!!! the sensor now worked and dthe cup did not go out of sensing range. The unit now worked perfectly. Thanks for all your help Bud
Wade (or anybody out there): A couple weeks ago my opener started jamming. It would open the door about 4-6 inches and stop. It wouldn't go backwards after that, it would just stop. Every time I push the button to open/close the door it just keeps pulling the door up 4-6 inches and stopping. It finally got to the point where the trolley was all the way to the motor housing and the chain didn't move any more when I activated the opener. IT wouldn't even reverse to close the door. I have spent $15 on a new RPM sensor and now $89 on a new logic board, but I have been unable to make any progrss. After replacing both sensor, interrupter cup, and logic board, the same problem still exists. I disconnected the chain. Gears turn for 2-3 seconds and stop. The chain sprocket on top of the unit always turns counter-clockwise (opening the door). I have even replaced the RPM sensor a second time, just to be sure I didn't buy a defective one. I still get the same 5 blinking light error code. Additionally, I have removed the limit switch assembly just to see if the dang motor/gears would run for more than 3 seconds, and no luck. All wired connections seem to be fine. This is killing me! It's not even about money at this point. It's about figuring it out!
@Brian, what condition is the drive gear (worm gear, normally white) in? If it's worn down a bit you can have this problem occur. Also, make sure you have the RPM sensor disk (cup) pushed securely onto the end of the motor shaft. If those both look good, loosen the collar that holds the worm gear in place and then push the motor shaft all the way forward. Now tighten the collar back up and see if anything changes.
drive gear/worm gear re nearly perfect (no shavings anywhere). Pushed shaft forward and retightened collar. Still no change. Embarassing admission: When I purchased a replacement logic board, I purchased the wrong model (41A5483C) instead of 41AC150-2. Although they both look nearly identical and have the same connections, could this be the probem?
Brian, It's an unbelievable frustrating problem. I had the same dilemma, door would not go down without reversing or stopping. % error lights. Purchased a new sensor wheel but- before I installed it a friend came and gave me a hand with trying to see what else could be the problem. He noticed that the sensor cup moved away from the sensor board when the chain started down. With both of us working on insuring that the components were fully secured via hex nut on shaft, the motion was minimized and the unit worked as it should. It has now worked flawlessly for about two months. The expert Wade has covered all this fully--but it's hard to imagine how a millimeter in cup motion is all it takes to screw up the system. Best of luck put a light on the cup and watch for any motion as the door begins to move. Bud
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