Why will our garage door still only go up or down 6 inches at a time?
I asked this two days ago and got an answer but I have tried some more stuff in the meantime and wanted to submit another question regarding my door opener, model 139.53627SRT, that was working great until two days ago. Problem: When you press a button on either the wall or a remote it will only go about 8 inches and then it will reverse and stop where you started. I can keep stopping it during the cycle and eventually work the door all the way up or down but it takes 30 or so cycles. The overhead lights are not flashing. What I have tried: Checked both sensors. They both have steady green LEDs, and when you block them and press the button the lights will flash 10 times and it will not try to move. In other words I think they are OK. I did notice that one sensors light will not go out even if you block the sensor? I am guessing that is normal. I disconnected the door to see if it was binding up. It seems fine and balanced (it will rest about half way up). I also noticed that the "car" will do the same thing even without the door attached. It still only moves about 8 inches and returns. I played with all the adjustments, force and travel, up and down, without changing anything. The drive sprocket on top of the unit seems fine. I removed the covers from the unit and all the plastic gears seem to be intact with no stripped or broken teeth. The travel limit switches seem to work fine. The door will move back and forth the 8 inches without ever touching either one but when I adjust them to where they make contact it does stop the door either direction. I put them back where they started and I assume they are OK. The next thing I did was remove the black interrupter cap from the end of the motor shaft, the gear with the tabs that break the sensor signal. Removing it did not change the symptoms, but I am not sure if just removing it was actually testing anything. Sorry for the book. Any ideas?
Expert
Maestro
You are doing a good job of systematically narrowing down the possible causes so it is just a matter of time until the problem is found.
Your testing does indicate that the safety sensors are working normally. And you eliminated the door itself as a main cause since the issue remains with it disconnected. The Travel Limits seem okay since they are not contacting when they should not be but do work when you manually adjust them to contact. The drive sprocket and plastic gears look good, and force adjustments do not help, so it likely is not a mechanical binding in the lift assembly.
The opener should react differently when you test with the Interrupter Cap removed. The tabs on this cap interrupt the signal of the sensor as the motor turns and this signal change is what lets the control board know the door is moving. If the sensor does not confirm movement, the board suspects a problem and stops the opener motor. That could be why your door will move a short distance and then stop.
Start by checking that all the wiring connectors to the RPM sensor, and from the sensor to the control board, are in place and making good contact. Check carefully as they can work loose and it is easy to install the connectors off-center so that one of the wires is not even connected.
If everything looks okay there, you are left with either a failed RPM Sensor or a failed control board. Unfortunately, testing further is pretty difficult so it becomes trial and error. I would start with the RPM Sensor since it is relatively inexpensive and seems to be the only component not reacting properly to testing at this stage. The RPM Sensor assembly can be ordered through your Sears Store or Sears.com using the part number 09.139.41C4398A.
If a new RPM Sensor does not fix it, the problem is likely your control board, normally called a Logic Board. The part number would be 09.139.41a4315-6G but the cost of the Logic Board may be high enough to consider a complete new opener instead.
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