Replace a Kitchen Faucet
SKILL LEVEL 3
by Dave Toht
Whether your kitchen faucet is incurably leaky or simply worse for wear, replacing it gives your kitchen a quick and inexpensive upgrade. You’ll find plenty of style options to choose from. All faucet sets will fit into the three holes standard on most sinks. Your sink may have a fourth hole for a sprayer. If you're lukewarm about this feature and want to do away with it, buy a snap-in cap to cover it.
Since you'll be working under the sink anyway, consider installing new Hot and Cold supply lines. Flexible braided steel or plastic lines are a vast improvement on kink-prone copper lines. In addition, it’s nearly impossible to keep the crusty ends of your old lines from leaking when you attach them to the new faucet.
Dave Toht is a former carpenter with more than 60 DIY books to his credit. He strongly believes in making the under-sink area comfy as possible before starting a plumbing repair.
3 Skill level
3 out of 5
8 Steps
21 Materials
-
Step 2 Shut off the water
Under the sink you’ll find two small valves called stop valves. The Hot and Cold lines (they’ll be made of flexible plastic hose, rigid gray plastic tubing, braided metal or copper) run from these to the faucet. Shut both valves off by turning them clockwise. You may need a pair of groove-joint pliers to “crack” the handles before turning. (If you don’t have stop valves, shut off the water at your home’s main shutoff.) Note which line is Hot and which is Cold. -
Step 3 Remove the supply lines
Using an adjustable wrench, detach each supply line. Always use a second wrench to stabilize the fitting. The lines will be full of water so have a plastic pan or bucket handy as you remove them. Clean the threads of the valve or connection with a brass wire brush or stiff toothbrush. If you don’t have stop valves, take the opportunity to install them now. They are a great convenience when making repairs and handy should you have an emergency leak. -
Step 4 Detach the faucet
A nut, washer and some sort of bracket on one or two mounting shanks secure the faucet to the sink. You’ll barely be able to see them because they’re hidden up and behind the sink bowl. There’s no room to unfasten them with a standard wrench, which is why the basin wrench was invented. Hook the basin wrench on a nut and turn counter-clockwise to remove it. It may not release easily. Do what ever it takes to loosen it, even if that means wailing away on it with a screwdriver and hammer. (Be sure there are no young or sensitive people in the kitchen at this time. The procedure is not hazardous, but your language may be.) If you have a sprayer hose, detach it from the faucet set. -
Step 5 Remove the faucet set
Rock the faucet set until it releases. You may need a putty knife to pry off the putty or rubber seal beneath the faucet. Remove the faucet and thoroughly clean the sink surface, using mineral spirits or denatured alcohol if necessary. -
Step 6 Prepare the faucet
Consult the manufacturer’s instructions and attach everything possible before installing the faucet, including new supply lines if they aren’t already attached. (In some cases you won’t be able to attach the supply lines until after the mounting nuts are installed.) Wrap pipe thread tape clockwise onto the threads of any supply connections. -
Step 7 Install the new faucet
Most new faucets come with a flexible gasket. Attach it to the bottom of the faucet set and position the faucet, feeding supply lines into the relevant holes. (If your faucet doesn’t have a gasket, apply a bead of silicone caulk or a snake of plumber’s putty to the base.) From underneath, add the mounting hardware and twist on any mounting nuts finger tight. Check the positioning of the faucet from above, then get back under the sink and use the basin wrench to tighten firmly. -
Step 8 Attach supply lines
If not already attached, add the supply lines to the faucet, first adding pipe thread tape then tightening each nut by hand. Use the basin wrench to finish the job. Attach the lines to the stop valves, being careful to attach the Hot supply line to the Hot stop valve and the Cold supply to the Cold valve. If you have a sprayer, slip it into place from above and attach it to the center outlet of the faucet. Turn on the water and test the faucet.
You may also like
Have a question? Ask now
Start smart
-
Ready to buy what you need?
Shop now -
Still have questions?
Ask us -
Need expert repair service?
Schedule now
Supplies
| Product | Have | Need |
|---|---|---|
| Abrasive pad | ||
| Adjustable wrenches | ||
| Brass wire brush | ||
| Bucket | ||
| Cushions | ||
| Denatured alcohol | ||
| Drop cloths | ||
| Hammer | ||
| Mineral spirits | ||
| Old toothbrush | ||
| Pillows | ||
| Pipe thread tape | ||
| Plastic pan | ||
| Pliers, groove-joint | ||
| Plumber’s putty | ||
| Putty knife | ||
| Rags | ||
| Screwdriver, slot-type | ||
| Silicone caulk | ||
| Work light | ||
| Wrench, basin wrench | ||
