Get Rid of Fleas

• Step 1 Bark up the right tree

  Before doing anything to get rid of fleas, confirm that the problem actually is fleas. Your first clue is that your pet jumps in alarm, then scratches or bites himself. You might also notice bites on your ankles.

  It's easy to detect fleas on your pet:

  • You can sometimes see them on the skin on your pet's lower belly or by running a flea comb gently on the skin on the nape of the neck, under the ears (where pets often scratch) and on the lower back near the tail. Inspect the comb for the tiny insects — if you find any, dump them into soapy water to kill them.
  • If you don't see the actual fleas, look for little black specks of flea dirt, which is the blood fleas digest and excrete. Put the flea dirt on a light colored surface and add a drop of water. If it is flea dirt (and not just your average, ordinary dirt) the water turns reddish brown after about 30 seconds.

  If it is fleas, don’t panic; a flea infestation is treatable. But don't blow the whole thing off, either — one flea means many more.

• Step 2 Get your de-fleaing weaponry

  Getting rid of fleas requires attacking them on two fronts: the environment and the pet. And you need flea-killing products for both:

  For the home
  Ask your vet to suggest the most effective product for your situation. You might consider a professional exterminator, a house fogger or a long-lasting spray. Look for a product that both kills adult fleas and inhibits the development of eggs and larvae. Read the instructions before you buy, to make sure you're comfortable using it. 

  For your pet
  A vet or groomer can give you pet a flea bath. If you'd rather do it yourself, get a medicated flea shampoo from a supermarket, your vet or a pet supply store. Shampoos are more effective than powders, sprays and dips. You have a wide variety of shampoos to choose from; some have synthetic insecticides and some are natural remedies.

  Keep these important cautions in mind:

  • Even if you never read labels, read this one. Only use what’s recommended for the size and type of your pet and follow the directions on the label exactly.
  • Dog and cat shampoos are very different. Don't wash a cat with dog shampoo or vice versa.
  • Some products are toxic to cats, so choose carefully and don’t use too much.
  • If you’re dealing with a kitten or a puppy, it's best to let a professional groomer or a vet do the flea bath. If you do it at home, dilute the shampoo with water before applying it to your kitten or puppy. And call your vet to make sure the product is safe for young animals.

• Step 3 Treat the environment

  Getting rid of fleas and hidden flea eggs from your pet’s environment is the first stage.

  Get your pets and the rest of your family out of the house. This is the time to drop off your pet at the groomer or vet for a flea bath, or to have a helper do the bath someplace other than in your house. If you're going to shampoo your pet yourself, put it outside in a safe place where it will be comfortable for a few hours.

  Gather all machine-washable items your pet comes in contact with, including the pet's bed, your bedding, slipcovers, bath mats, curtains and stuffed toys. Stuff each load in a plastic garbage bag so fleas can't escape while the load waits its turn. Wash and dry each load on the hottest setting suitable for the fabric.

  Vacuum your house. Call it a spring cleaning and get into every corner and under every chair. Do drapes and upholstered furniture too. When you finish, place the vacuum cleaner bag in a garbage bag and dispose of it in your outside trash can.

  Then use the fogger or spray, following label instructions exactly. If you fog, leave the house for the time recommended — usually a few hours — and air out the house when you return.

• Step 4 Here, kitty kitty

  Ideally, a helper can shampoo your pet while you're cleaning inside. Otherwise, do it when you've finished the house. Dogs and cats don’t have much of a sense of humor when it comes to being bathed. But, when it comes to fleas, the bath is a critical element of defense: your pet must be free of fleas before you reintroduce him or her to your flea-free home.

• Step 5 De-flea the outdoors

  Once your house and pet are flea-free, do the yard before you let your pet outside again. De-flea your yard with help from a professional exterminator or with do-it-yourself insecticides. You might have to treat your yard monthly during warm months.

  To make the yard less appealing to fleas in the future, mow the lawn regularly and collect the clippings.

• Step 6 Stay flea free

  Flea shampoos, powders, collars, sprays and dips kill the fleas already on your pet, but most have limited lasting effect. To keep a lid on future fleas, put your pet on a monthly flea-prevention program.

  Your choices are topical treatments that you squirt on your pet's skin between the shoulder blades, or pills:

  Topical. Advantage, Revolution and FrontlinePlus are preventive, monthly topical products you apply directly to your dog or cat's skin. Each kills fleas that might get on your pet from the environment. FrontlinePlus also is effective on flea larvae and eggs as well as ticks. Revolution kills adult fleas, larve and eggs, and also prevents heartworm and controls infestations of ear mites, hookworms and roundworms.

  Pills. If you want to avoid messy topical treatments and your pet can swallow a pill, try Program, a monthly tablet that gets rid of eggs combined with Capstar to kill adults.

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