Build a Classic Wardrobe

Blouses come and go, but a man-tailored button-down Oxford is timeless. Don’t actually dig through your husband’s closet; to make this a lady’s blouse, you’ll need figure-flattering darts.

Fit. Mind the gap! No matter what your chest size, you never want a button-down shirt to pull bra-revealingly between the buttons. Go up a size if necessary so the blouse fits through the shoulders and arms, and have it tailored to fit your chest.

Fabric. Say it loud and proud: wrinkle-resistant cotton. This miracle fiber — made with a resin treatment — holds its shape so you won’t be shackled to the ironing board.

Upkeep. You don’t want to give stains a chance to set, so wash soon after wearing in warm water with a detergent made for whites. Tend to perspire? Have your tailor sew shields into the underarms of your shirts.

There is no more universally flattering pair of jeans than dark-wash bootcut. They immediately dress up an errand-running outfit, are suitable for business casual offices and can go out on the town with a pair of heels.

Fit. Look for a bootcut silhouette with a hem that hits the top of your shoe without dragging in the back (consider buying two pairs and having one hemmed to wear with flats). A mid-rise (coming just below the belly button) won't sag and gap in the back. Petite women should have jeans tailored and ask that the original hem be reattached.

Fabric. Avoid distressing of any kind; you want a trend-proof deep indigo wash. Look for a weave with spandex so the jeans hug your body (and don’t stretch out after you wear them). Avoid decorative embroidery on the back pockets; the simpler the better.

Upkeep. You want to maintain the dark wash, so spot clean the jeans or have them dry cleaned to keep the hue vibrant. If they start to fade, you can refresh them with a denim dye.

Vests need not apply: Your three-piece suit should consist of a jacket, skirt and pair of trousers. The color? Black. Pair the pieces for a sleek look, or wear them separately with other items to create several outfits. Jacket plus jeans equals office casual. Skirt plus cardigan equals "meet the parents." Trousers plus chiffon blouse equals Friday night.

Fit. Every suit should pay a visit to the tailor, even if you feel like it’s a pretty good fit off the rack. Minor adjustments to darts, shoulder pads and hems will make your investment pay off.

• Jacket: Look for a simplest, classic, single-breasted, two-button jacket with narrow lapels and a notch collar.
• Skirt: If you have narrow hips or an hourglass figure, get a straight or pencil skirt that hugs your hips without pulling unflatteringly across them. More of a pear-shaped gal? Get an A-line skirt that will glide over your wider hips. Either silhouette should fall to just above the knee and be fully lined.
• Trousers: This is not the time for trendy pleats or pegged cuffs. Look for a flat-front, straight-legged pair that break at the top of your shoe. Wear heels when trying on the trousers and use fabric tape to adjust the hem for flats.

Fabric. Wool gabardine is light, drapes in a flattering way and wears well. A spandex blend will help the fabric keep its shape after a wearing. The lining should be of a breathable fiber (no acetate here).

Upkeep. Hang up your suit after wearing (no tossing on the bedroom chair) to keep it wrinkle-free. Dry clean only.

Not all LBDs are created equal. You want an ultra-simple sheath that can easily go from day to night. It could even be from the same suiting line as your three-piece. The idea is to have the chicest little black dress on which to build with a jeweled necklace, a colorful cardigan or a bright belt.

Fit. Look for a high neckline (scoop if you are bigger-busted, but not so low that it shows cleavage), a separate waistband (to ensure the most figure-enhancing fit) and a flattering skirt that comes to just above the knee.

Fabric. A light, wool gabardine with a full, breathable lining.

Upkeep. Dry clean only.

Think "First Lady." Michelle Obama masterfully wears colorful cardigans, belts them like a jacket or wears them as shirts. You can’t go wrong with a classic black cardi, but if you can swing it, buy colors that brighten your complexion.

Fit. V-neck or crew neck, tissue-weight cardigans are a perfect layering piece, so be certain that the shoulders and sleeves fit flawlessly. Consider three-quarter sleeves for more layering fun. The style should be hip-length and slightly loose through the torso, but not boxy.

Fabric. Lightweight cotton, cashmere or lambs wool. Cotton has the advantage of being machine washable and cool enough for summer layering, but featherweight cashmere is incredibly soft and durable. Cashmere can be purchased at all different prices, but beware of going too cheap. Many inexpensive cashmere sweaters are actually blends of a goat’s soft undercoat and coarser outer hairs. They will pill easily and not last as long as purer, more premium fabrics.

Upkeep. You always take a risk when you disregard a sweater’s washing instructions, but oftentimes dry-clean-only cashmere and wool sweaters can be hand-washed in a basin of lukewarm water. Use a detergent made for delicates and clean by soaking the garment. Don’t crumple or wring out the sweaters. Lay them flat to air dry. Remove scraggly-looking pills with a depilling stone or comb.

Pashminas are rarely made of actual pashmina (an ultra-soft Himalayan cashmere). Rather, the name is a catchall for twill shawls of all fibers. A shawl is one of the most useful items of clothing you can own; throw it over your shoulders as an evening cover-up, or wear it as a casual scarf, a rain-resistant head wrap or a bikini-covering sarong.

Fit. One size fits all!

Fabric. Try finding a washable blend that is soft and durable. Because a pashmina can double as a travel pillow or picnic blanket, you want something that won’t require pricey dry cleaning. Choose a shawl in basic black for a go-anywhere piece, or try a fun color that adds pizzazz to your neutral wardrobe.

Upkeep. Pure pashmina, cashmere or wool are dry-clean-only propositions, while most other blends can be washed by hand in lukewarm water or, in the case of polyester or cotton versions, tossed in the wash.

Replenish these indispensable layering pieces each season, choosing tanks for summer, short-sleeved versions for fall and long-sleeved varieties for winter. As high-quality tees are quite inexpensive, there is no excuse for wearing a worn-out, stretched t-shirt.

Fit. Don’t just grab a three-pack. Put on a seamless t-shirt bra and try on tees until you find exactly the right look. Necklines are crucial; a man-style crewneck, for example, can be unflattering to those a B-cup or above. Look for a scoop or V-neck version that is more feminine and versatile. Be certain that the shoulder seam lines up nicely with the edge of your shoulders and that the hem reaches the top of your hip.

Fabric. Heavyweight cotton often doesn’t drape well, so look for something finer. 100 percent cotton is best, in a variety of seasonal colors.

Upkeep. You didn’t spend hours in the dressing room to ruin your T-shirts in one dryer cycle. Treat your tees as you would your delicates. Wash on gentle and dry in a cool dryer.

Sweatpants, be gone! A crisp chino in khaki or gray is nice enough to wear to the office and durable enough for the park.

Fit. Choose a pair with a flat-front straight leg that either touch the top of your shoe or are cropped above the ankle to show off your sandals. Have bulky or heavy pockets sewn up and the excess fabric cut out to keep your silhouette clean.

Fabric. Look for heavy cotton twill with a worn-in softness. Try a touch of spandex for a more formfitting effect.

Upkeep. Bless ‘em. Because chinos are often pre-washed for softness, you can usually machine wash and dry them.

This is no motorcycle number, so skip the zippers and studs. A fitted, blazer-style leather jacket will give an outfit edge without being inappropriate for the office. It’s sleek, wears well and guards you from the elements. Get yours in black so it can be mixed with your suits or thrown over a print dress for an evening cover-up.

Fit. This can have a slightly narrower fit than a standard blazer. Allow just enough room to wear a featherweight sweater beneath. The sleeker the silhouette, the more versatile the jacket.

Fabric. Look for thin, but buttery leather — nothing stiff or heavy. Not a leather fan? Look for one of the many faux-leather options available, or try waxed canvas.

Upkeep. Always treat your jacket with a weatherproofing agent as soon as you get it. Spot clean the piece as needed and wash with saddle soap about once a year, finishing with a leather conditioner.