Build a Plate Rail

To make the narrow shelf the plates sit on, rip a pine 1x4 along its length to make a strip that's 1-3/8-inches wide.

Cut all pieces to 31 inches long — the back, shelf, base moulding, top moulding and shelf-edge moulding.

Cut the scrap 1x8 into two 2-5/8 pieces. On both pieces, make a mark on one of the 2-5/8-inch edges, 1 inch from the long edge. Make a 45-degree cut from the mark to the one of the long edges.

Clamp the narrow edge of the shelf to the face of the back, with the top edge of the shelf 2 inches below the top edge of the back.

With a 1/8-inch bit, drill pilot holes through the back and into the shelf, 1 inch from the ends. Drill additional pilot holes spaced roughly 6 inches apart. Drive #6 1-5/8-inch drywall screws into the pilot holes, with the heads slightly below the surface.

Apply wood glue to the back of the base moulding (baseboard moulding WM 632) and place it on the back piece, butted against the bottom of the shelf.

Hammer a row of 1-inch wire brads, spaced about 8 inches apart, as close to the shelf as you can comfortably hammer. Drive another row closer to the bottom of base molding, but far enough from the edge that they will be completely hidden under the front moulding (added in next step).

Use a nail set to tap the brads so the heads are just below the surface.

Apply wood glue to the back of the front moulding (panel moulding WM 212) and place it on the base moulding, butted against the bottom of the shelf.

Using a 4d nail as a drill bit, drill pilot holes spaced about 6 inches apart, centered between the top and bottom edges of the moulding. Drive the nails through the pilot holes. Use a nail set to tap the nail heads just below the surface.

Apply wood glue to the back of the shelf-edge moulding and place it on the front edge of the shelf, bottom edges aligned.

Hammer a row of 1-inch wire brads through the shelf-edge moulding into the shelf. Use a nail set to tap them just below the surface. If the molding doesn't seat tightly against the shelf, drill additional pilot holes as needed, and then drive and set the wire brads.

Trim half an inch from both ends to even them off; remove more if you want a shorter plate rail.

Hold an end cap on the side of the plate rail with its top aligned with the top of the back. Drill pilot holes through it using a 4d nail as a drill bit — drill two holes into the shelf and four into the back. Nail in place with 4d nails and set the nails below the surface with a nail set.

Repeat on the other end of the shelf.

Use your finger to dab window glazing compound over all the nail holes (window glazing compound is easy to apply and holds paint well).

Sand all surfaces to the smoothness you prefer. Apply an interior-grade primer to the plate rail and let dry for as long as the label specifies. Then paint with the color and sheen you prefer; a semi-gloss is easier to wipe clean. Allow to dry completely.

Locate the studs with a stud finder and position the shelf so it spans two studs. It doesn't have to be centered over the studs, but so the shelf hangs securely, avoid having one stud at an end of the plate rail and the other in the middle. Mark the front of the plate rail 1 inch from the bottom and 1 inch from the top at the stud locations.

Draw a level line on the wall to mark where the top of the plate rail goes.

Drill pilot holes for nails, using a 6d nail as a drill bit. Drive the 6d nails partway through the pilot holes, put the plate rail in place and nail it to the studs. Use a nail set to tap the nails just below the surface. Fill the holes with window glazing putty and then touch up with paint.