Build a Bookcase

Prepare the top at least a day before you build the bookcase.

Rough cut two 1x8s to 40 inches. You'll trim them to the exact length later.

Spread a long piece of waxed paper on a smooth surface. Lay the 1x8s on the waxed paper, best side up, and spread carpenter's glue on the adjacent edges. Clamp the pieces together, joined evenly. (If you have a biscuit joiner, now is a perfect time to put it to use.)

The plate that fits under the top of the bookcase at the front can be a straight 1x3 or a 1x6 with an arch cut into it.

To make a straight front plate, cut a 1x3 cut to 34-1/4 inches and sand the long edges. Go to the next step.

To make the arched board, mark two lines on a 1x6 to indicate its finished length of 34-1/2inches. Set a lattice strip or thin plywood on the 1x6 and, with the help of an assistant or using clamps and blocks, bend the strip to form a pleasing, symmetrical arch. With a pencil, trace the arch onto the 1x6 between the two marks.

Clamp the marked 1x6 securely to a bench or a pair of sawhorses. Use a saber saw fitted with a fine-toothed woodcutting blade to cut along the arch; start the saw before cutting into the wood. As you cut, go for a smooth curve even if you stray from the line slightly. You might have to reclamp midway through the cut.

Smooth the cut edge, using a rasp shaping tool or belt sander. Once you're satisfied with the shape, do a final smoothing with medium- and fine-grade sandpaper.

Cut the board to its 34-1/2 inch length at the marks.

Because the ends of lumber are not always square, cut one end to square if necessary before cutting the other end to length.

Cut the bottom 1x12 shelf and 1x2 kickplate to exactly the same length as the arch. Cut the 1x12 sides to 47-1/4 inches

Clamp the sides next to each other with their top and bottom edges aligned. Mark the top edge of each piece “Top" to avoid confusion later.

Experiment on scrap wood to determine how deep the make the holes to fit the shelf clips without punching through the board. Mark the drill bit with a piece of tape to indicate the depth.

Set a piece of perforated hardboard on the clamped side boards as a guide for the holes. Starting 8 inches from the top edge and 2 inches from both side edges on both boards, drill a column of holes spaced every 2 inches. Stop 8 inches from the bottom.

Glue the top edge of the kickplate to the bottom of the bottom shelf, set back 3/4 inches — use scrap 1x as a guide.

Drill a pilot hole every 12 inches and then nail the kickplate to the bottom shelf with 4d finishing nails. Sink the nail below the surface with a nail set and fill nail holes with wood putty.

Glue and nail the sides to the bottom shelf, shelf holes inward.

At the top of the case, glue and fasten the arch (or straight 1x3) in place with the best side outward.

Set the top on the case with its back edge lined up with the back of the case. Using a scrap 1x, mark the 3/4-inch overhang on the sides and front. Rip the top to the proper width and then cut to length. Sand the edges.

Apply carpenters glue to the top of the side pieces and position the top on the case. Drill pilot holes through the top into the top edge of the sides and nail the top in place with 6d finishing nails. Sink the nails with a nail set and fill nail holes with wood putty.

Trim a 4x4 piece of 1/4-inch hardboard so it's 1/2 inch shorter and narrower than the back of the bookcase, to allow 1/4-inch setback so the edges of the hardboard won't show. If you want to finish the backboard with stain, paint or varnish (finishing is optional), do it now so it has time to dries. Don't finish it once it's in place, which can make the finish pool in the corners of the shelves.

Install the shelf clips and measure the distance between sides to determine the length of the shelves. Allow about a 1/16-inch gap between the case and each end of the shelf.

Cut two 1x12 shelves to length and then cut two 1x2 support pieces to exactly the same length.

Glue the support to the underside of the shelf with a 3/4-inch setback, with the best side of the support facing out and the best side of the shelf facing up (use 1x scrap to check the setback). Drill pilot holes for 4d finishing nails and nail the support to the shelf. Sink the nails below the surface with a nail set and fill nail holes with wood putty.

Push the shelf clips in place and test fit the shelves. Remove the shelves and clips. Adjust the shelf length, if needed.

Give the entire piece a sanding (especially the wood putty) and apply the stain or paint of your choice. When the case is dry, square the corners and attach the back with headed 3/4-inch brads.

Allow plenty of time for the bookcase to dry before installing the shelves and loading it with books; they stick fiercely to even a slightly tacky surface.