The circular saw is the single most indispensable tool for building a deck. As quality has improved and prices have fallen, the circular saw has become a staple for most do-it-yourselfers. It requires minimal maintenance, has a short learning curve, and is relatively safe to use. This versatile tool is capable of ripping, crosscutting, straightening edges, plowing out notches, and cutting bevels. You'll need this tool not only for such straightforward tasks as trimming deck boards but for making plunge cuts into siding to make room for ledger boards and for trimming posts.
Key Techniques
Choosing the correct blade
A fine-tooth crosscut blade is suited for cutting across the grain. It also makes smooth, clean cuts in plywood. A rip blade is best for cutting with the grain, such as lengthwise on wide 2x lumber. A combination blade is standard-issue on new saws. It can be used to both rip and crosscut and is the best choice if you don't want to change blades regularly.
Replacing the blade
Note:Unplug the saw.
When removing a blade, set the saw on a piece of scrap and push down so the blade will not turn. With a wrench (usually supplied with a new saw), loosen the locking nut. Carefully remove the nut and blade. Insert the new blade with the teeth at the front of the saw pointing upward, and tighten the nut. If the blade is secured with washers, be sure to replace them in the proper order.
Squaring the blade
Note:Unplug the saw.
Circular saws can be adjusted to cut up to a 45-degree angle, but most of your cutting will be square. Ignore the degree settings stamped on the angle adjustment mechanism; they are seldom accurate. Instead, drop the blade as far below the base plate as possible, then adjust the base plate using a speed square. When the blade is perfectly aligned with the vertical edge of the square, tighten the base plate.
Setting depth of cut
Note:Unplug the saw.
Tool manufacturers often suggest the saw blade be set to project no more than 1/4 inch beneath the surface being cut. Carpenters often prefer to have a full saw tooth extending beneath the surface. The latter approach exposes more of the spinning blade, but it allows for quicker sawdust removal from within the cut. Once you set the depth, tighten the locking lever.
Making straight cuts
Many carpenters learn to make straight cuts by keeping a close eye on the pencil line. Others find they achieve greater accuracy by using a speed square placed against the base plate to guide the saw. There's no perfect technique; practice until you find a method with which you can produce consistently square cuts.
Supporting your work
Traditionally, the first thing a carpenter's apprentice learned to build was a pair of sawhorses. Whether you make or buy your own, use them. Cut long boards so that the cutoff falls off the end. Never make cuts between the sawhorses, which can cause the saw to bind and kick back dangerously. Use clamps or a free hand to support the work.
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